Hattie Carnegie

Hattie Carnegie was one of the most influential figures in American fashion during the 1920s-1950s. She was born to a Jewish family in Vienna as Henrietta Kanengeiser and later immigrated to New York City’s Lower East Side. Her career began in the hat-making trade, which she joined at a young age to support her family. In 1909, she and her business partner, Rose Roth, established their own millinery business, which grew over the years. By 1919, Carnegie had bought out Roth and officially launched Hattie Carnegie, Inc.

Carnegie in 1955

Like many American designers at the time, Carnegie attended Paris fashion shows to bring back designs that were adapted for the U.S. market. Initially, all dresses made by Hattie Carnegie were custom-made; however, in 1928, she launched her first ready-to-wear collection, hiring Norman Norell as her designer. Her business had grown so large by then that it operated much like a small department store. By the late 1930s, Carnegie’s products, including ready-to-wear clothing, hats, and accessories, were sold in stores nationwide, gaining particular popularity in California and among Hollywood stars. She received celebrity endorsement from the likes of Joan Crawford and Lucille Ball, which helped cement her reputation as a trendsetter across the country. 

Hattie Carnegie (in the middle)

However, Carnegie experienced significant disruptions during World War 2. Before the war, Carnegie regularly visited Paris and drew inspiration from the French, but wartime disruptions meant she could no longer travel. Hence, she had to rely on local American designers and textiles for inspiration. Although this was originally a disruption, it actually helped her establish an American design identity that still exists today. Carnegie passed away in 1956, and without her leadership, the brand gradually lost its prestige. The custom salon closed in 1965, and the business eventually shut down in 1976, marking the end of an era for one of America’s pioneering fashion houses. Nevertheless, her impact on shaping American style remains enduring and influential.

Carnegie is credited with pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear clothing in America, making fashionable designs more accessible to a wider audience. The "Carnegie Suit" and the "little black dress" became signature styles that were widely emulated and adopted by American women. Carnegie's designs reflected her understanding of the evolving needs and lifestyles of American women, creating garments that were both fashionable and practical. Carnegie's influence extended beyond her designs, inspiring countless other designers and shaping the overall aesthetic of American fashion. It was Hattie Carnegie who invented “ready to wear” and had the first dress shop in a department store, Neiman Marcus, and soon after, Saks Fifth Avenue. Her ability to blend elegance, quality, and accessibility helped American fashion evolve from European imitation into its own respected and influential industry. 

Hattie Carnegie Suits in 1945

What I find most inspiring about Carnegie is her emphasis on the role of clothing in empowering women. Her fashion philosophy is often summed up as, “The woman should wear the clothes, not the clothes wear the woman.” She prioritized creating designs that allowed women to look and feel their best, moving away from the rigid expectations of traditional couture.