Nettie Rosenstein

Nettie Rosenstein (1890–1980) was a prominent American fashion designer based in New York City. Born Nettie Rosenscrans in Austria-Hungary in 1890, she immigrated to the U.S. with her Jewish family, settled in Harlem, and began a dressmaking business that grew into a successful fashion establishment by 1921. She was known for creating tailored looks that suited a variety of body types and for bringing ready-to-wear fashion, such as “the little black dress,” to American consumers.

Nettie Rosenstein in 1944

Growing up in New York, Nettie was introduced to the world of fabrics and craftsmanship through her family's dry-goods store—a shop that sold textiles, sewing supplies, and other household items. This early exposure sparked her interest in design and gave her firsthand knowledge in selecting fabrics, tailoring, and design. While her sister Pauline operated a hat-making business from home, Nettie began designing dresses for her clients, gradually building a name for herself. Her ability to combine style with functionality attracted attention from women who valued both beauty and practicality in their clothing. These early efforts laid the groundwork for what would become a successful career in fashion.

In the early 20th century, European (especially French) designers dominated the fashion industry. Nettie Rosenstein sought to distinguish herself by crafting a uniquely American approach to style, one that mirrored the shifting roles and growing independence of women during that time. With a deep understanding of what women needed in their everyday lives, she designed clothing that combined sophistication with comfort and practicality, offering designs that were simultaneously refined and wearable.

Model in a Nettie Rosenstein

In the 1920s, Rosenstein gained popularity, eventually transforming her name into a sought-after fashion brand, available only in a limited number of high-end stores throughout the United States. Her significant role in defining American women’s fashion was recognized through prestigious honors, such as the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1938 and the Coty Award in 1947. As the business grew, Rosenstein focused largely on the commercial side, while her sister-in-law Eva Rosencrans created many of the label’s more iconic designs–including the gown worn by First Lady Mamie Eisenhower at the 1953 inauguration. 

Mamie Eisenhower at the 1953 inauguration

In 1941, during World War II, Rosenstein took part in the American Designers for War Relief fashion show, an event organized to support the American Red Cross. Her work during this period gained deeper meaning, as her designs came to symbolize not just American fashion but also national pride and resilience. One of her most lasting impacts on the industry was her interpretation of the “little black dress.” Although Coco Chanel introduced the concept in Paris during the 1920s, Rosenstein reimagined it through an American lens, creating a version that combined simplicity, elegance, and everyday practicality.

Little black dress by Nettie Rosenstein, 1950s

In 1961, Nettie Rosenstein decided to close the fashion division of her brand, though her accessory line, particularly her jewelry, remained in production under the leadership of her longtime partner, Sol Klein. He continued to design and oversee the jewelry collection until his retirement in 1975. Nettie Rosenstein died on March 13, 1980, at the age of 90. Her transformative legacy reveals the role of New York City’s early Jewish community in defining contemporary American fashion.